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Pictures and Description of my 2G - 1G Head Swap |
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In this picture you can see the balance shaft belt, and the crank sensor.
Balance shaft belt removed. To get it out I also removed the tensoner pulley,
and the crank sensor. To pull the belt off, you need to walk it around the
crank. To put it back on, you need to do the same thing. Make sure you keep
track of where everything was when you started.
Before I can put the timing belt back on, I needed put the new head on. I
cleaned the block, using Acitone, and installed the ARP Head Studs. These are
really nice studs.
Nope... Not using a copper head gasket. I heard that there is a problem with
the copper gaskets sealing around the water ports. Instead I got some Permatex
Copper Gasket spray. I sprayed it on both sides of the factory head gasket.
I am hoping that this will add a little extra protection against any slight
defects in the factory head gasket.
Next was to clean the bottom of the head. I again used acitone for this too.
You can see the parts that were moved over.
Got the new head set in. Time to torque the nuts on the ARP head studs
Different view of the new head.
Yet another view.
On the front of the block there is a water line for the turbo. It has
a banjo bolt. I tried to put a external plug in it and found out that it
hits the 1st gen water pipe. I was not able to pull the fitting out of the
block, because it felt like it was going to snap. I found a recessed hex head
plug. I actually had to buy 25 of them, because I could not find only one!
IMPORTANT NOTE: This did not work. I found out the hard way that the inside
of the plug is not 1/4 in. NPT (National Pipe Thread). After getting everything
back in the car, and starting it, I formed a leak from the hex plug. I pulled
the turbo, J-Pipe, U-Pipe, and snorkel to get to it. I replaced it with another
hex plug with Permatex on it, and re-installed everything. Started the car again
and it still leaked. I measured the banjo bolt that came out and found out that
it is a 14mm x 1.5 thread. I ran around to all of automotive stores to find a
bolt I could use to plug it. Nobody had one. With a group of people at my house
trying to think of what we could use, we came up with the oil drain plug. Sure
enough it worked. But in order to get it to fit, I had to grind off 3/4 of the
head. I also needed to space out the water pipe with a 1/4 in bolt. I am hoping
that this will not cause problems when I go 20G.
This is another view. I used teflon tape to get a better seal. Again this did not
work - see above.
As mentioned, I had upgraded my turbo to a Frank II. This caused some problems with the water
pipe along the front of the motor. I now had to find a new way to seal the opening without making it
stick out. I finally have come up with a good way. I took a 1/8 NPT and tapped the insides of the bolt.
The 1/8 NPT tapped perfect. I then took a hex head plug similar to the one pictured here, but smaller.
It tapped tight and has not leaked over 2K miles.
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