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Pictures and Description of my 2G - 1G Head Swap |
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I custom made a distribution block for the EGR sensor and MAP sensor.
Here is one of the pictures of the final product.
Here is another view.
Since I had the thermostat housing off, I took some 240 grit sandpaper
to the hose fittings. I wanted to clean and smooth them so they won't
leak.
Bolting it into the car. I used some Permatex #2 on both sides of the
gasket before I put it on.
I needed to open up the wire harness so that I could re-route the two
thermostat sensor wires. On the 1st gen housing the 3rd connector is not used.
When I seperated them, I re-loomed then and taped them.
Better picture.
It is time to put the new timing belt on. First thing I needed to do is
line up all of the timing marks. The balance shaft pulley should have already
been set to the TDC mark in respects to the crank. The crank has a little 'V'
that needs to line up to the raised arrow on the block. The oil pump / rear
balance shaft takes a little more work. It has what feels like 3 different angles.
There is also a 14mm bolt in the back of the motor to allow you to stick a phillips
screw driver in to make sure it is lined up. On the GSX it is difficult to get to,
because the suspension mounts and AC are in the way. I found that I could spin the
pulley over a "hump" and let it fall to rest. I did this until the it fell to rest
with the timing mark lined up. You may also want to make sure everything is correct
by putting the phillips in the block.This picture shows all the marks lined up.The
pin is still left in the tensioner.
I got the timing belt put on, and made sure that all of the marks are still lined up.
It is a little easier if you have a friend helping you hold it. If not, then you want
to use some clips to hold it to the cam gears. After the belt was on, it is time to
play with the tensioner. I did not have the special tensioner from Mits, so I had to
do it by feel. I took a large screw driver and started to pry the pulley down. The first
time I did it, I got the top part of the belt tight, but the bottom part was still loose.
I loosened the bolt, and torqued the pulley down a little further until both the top and
bottom of the belts were tight. I was told by Ron @ TRE that I should get the belt tight
enough that I can pull the pin on the hydrolic tensioner and 5 min. later be able to put
the pin back in. (But not so tight that I put undue wear on the belt.) My advice is to
tighten it to a reasonable tension, just not too loose because the hydrolic tension arm
will only make up so much.
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